Panama Railroad
Take a trip on one of the last great train rides in the world. Enjoy a historic, panoramic trip
on the first transcontinental railroad of the Americas, if not the world; one that predates that of the United States by over ten years. This monumental feat of its time may have originally been for the purpose of transporting mail, but ended up carrying thousands of Argonauts from the
Eastern U.S. on their journey to the newly discovered gold fields of California. And on their way back to the east coast, the train carried back tons and tons of California Gold. This “taming” of the Isthmus of Panama lead to the successful creation of the Panama Canal itself. Although the modern train no longer makes the nostalgic stops at all those “old towns along the line”, it is still a “can’t miss” attraction. You’ll get a chance to travel along side the Panama Canal Locks and Ships in their passage. Take a detour from the Canal and delve into the Rain forest. Emerge from the jungle in time to cross the majestic Chagres River, then follow the immense Gatun Lake, once the largest man-made lake in the world, which makes up most of the Panama Canal. Cross over parts of the lake on causeways before coming to the Caribbean terminal of Colon, which is also the Caribbean terminus of the Panama Canal.
Summit Zoo
Visit Panama’s quaint little zoo at the edge of the rain forest. Although modest by some standards, it is still one of the best botanical gardens in the region, and was once the home to the Smithsonian and the Army’s Tropical Test Center. Now the visitors can get a close up look of the local flora and fauna found along the Trek, and throughout the country, as well as a great chance to study Panama’s national bird, the Harpy Eagle.
Panama Canal and Miraflores Locks
One of the most important stop is a visit to the Miraflores Visitors Center (http://www.pancanal.com/eng/anuncios/cvm/index.html) at the Miraflores Locks. The Miraflores Locks are the first set of locks at the Pacific Terminus of the Canal. There are two sets of chambers that raise or lower the ships from sea level to approximately 56 feet above sea level. From there the ships travel a short distance to the second set of locks at Pedro Miguel, where the ships are raised to, or lowered from the actual level of the Canal which is 85 feet ASL. The visitor’s center not only allows a spectacular, up-close view of the ships in the locks, but also houses a great museum explaining the construction of the canal. This visit is highly important so that your crew will understand more of the canal as they complete the Trek.
Old Panama
Take a tour of “Old Panama”, the City that was the first permanent European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas. Once known as the “Pearl of the Americas”, it was established in the very early 1500’s, but destroyed
during the attack by the Pirate Henry Morgan in 1671. Until its
destruction and subsequent relocation, this was the launching pad for
further conquests by other famous “Conquistadores” such as Pizarro in
Peru. A vast majority of all the Gold and Emeralds “sacked” from Colombia, and the Silver from the mines of Bolivia and Peru, was funneled through the Old Panama City on its way to the royal coffers in Spain.
Fort San Lorenzo
Part of the New Worlds
strategic points of defense, San Lorenzo was built to protect the mouth
of the Chagres River. The Chagres River not only carried immeasurable
amounts of Gold, Silver, and Jewels pillaged from the Spain’s new
possessions in the America’s, it was also the most viable route across
the isthmus to a point within reach of Panama city itself, therefore the
most logical route for Pirates and other enemies of Spain. Thus was the
need to protect the mouth at the Caribbean Sea. The original Fort was
constructed in the late 1500’s, and probably served its purpose well
until it fell to Henry Morgan’s Pirates in 1671. The fort was the site
of many minor skirmishes and attacks for many years, until it was again
captured by British Admiral Vernon (for whom George Washington’s estate
is named) in 1740. Supposedly, Washington’s brother was present on that
campaign. After being destroyed by Vernon, not much happened at San
Lorenzo until 1849, when US 49’ers began arriving at the sleepy little
town by the thousands. When the Panama Railroad was completed in 1855,
with it’s terminal a few miles up the coast at Colon,
the fort again fell into ruin as you will find it today; a silent
testament to glorious days gone by.
Portobelo, meaning
“Beautiful Port, was discovered and named by Christopher Columbus on his
forth and final voyage in the very early 1500’s. The town did not
realize it’s destiny in the new world until nearly 100 years later,
when the primary port of the “Castile de Oro”
was moved there from nearby “Nombre
de Dios”, Panama’s first Caribbean port. Looking at the town and
ruins today, you will have a hard time believing that this port was once
the richest, most bustling port in the “New World”. Here in the old
Customs House, Treasure was “stacked to the
ceiling”, waiting for the Treasure Galleons to take them back to Spain.
Most of the local excitement however, was not about the treasure, but
the arrival of the fleet itself. For with the fleet, arrived the
largest shipment of manufactured goods from the “Old World”. The
government of Spain had prohibited the Colonist from either
manufacturing their own good, nor were they allowed to trade with other
countries, This created a carnival-like atmosphere, when the population of the town was swollen by
thousands, enjoying the long awaited trade fair.
To a greater extent than San Lorenzo, this port and
town also underwent attacks and sieges by Pirates and foreign navies;
the most famous being Drake, Morgan, and Vernon. Here you can visit the
old Customs house, and any or all of the three old forts silently
“protecting” the port today. Take time also for a water-taxi around
the bend to “Playa Huerta” and enjoy a relaxing swim in the Caribbean.
Look out toward the open sea and you’ll notice “Drake’s Island”. This
is where the famous Corsair, Sir Francis Drake, from whom the island
received its name, was buried at sea in the late 1500s.
Madden
Lake (or Lago Alajuela) is the “second” lake of Panama. After the Gatun
Lake, and subsequently the Panama Canal was created in the early 1900s
by damming the Chagres River with the Gatun Dam, the River was dammed at
a second location in the mid 1930’s to create Madden Lake. This lake
was created in order to maintain a back up supply of water for the
Panama Canal, thus maintaining the level of the Canal, and the rhythm of
operation even through the dry season. Today, not only does the Lake
still perform this vital function, but it also provides drinking water
to the millions of residents of Panama City.
The valley that was flooded contained a large segment of the other permanent road or treasure trail called the “Camino Real”, or “Royal Road”. During the dry season of late December to early March, when the Chagres River was at its lowest, much of the treasure brought up through Panama City from South America was transported entirely by land to the ports of Nombre de Dios and Portobelo. Today, when the water level is low, you can still see remnants of the cobblestone “road”.
Situated along the banks, and short distances up some of the lake’s tributary rivers, are situated several Embera Indian Villages. Madden Lake also borders one of the largest National Parks in the Country, which not only is home for many of Panama, and the world’s endangered species, but also holds much of the watershed for the operation of the Panama Canal.
Madden Lake was also the “old stomping grounds” of the thousands of Boy Scouts from the old Canal Zone days.
Indian Villages
Along the banks of Madden Lake and the Chagres River, visit several of the native Emberá or Wounan Indian villages. These “Children of the Rainforest” have been inhabiting this area, relatively unchanged since before the arrival of Christopher Columbus. While visiting their home, you may take in some fishing; explore jungle trails and let them show you their “jungle pharmacy” of medicinal and other helpful plants; maybe go swimming or tubing in pristine wild rivers and visit beautiful waterfalls,
or maybe visit nearby caves and Panama’s only Natural Bridge; Enjoy listening to their stories and legends, and watch and join them in their native dances. Enjoy a delicious meal of fried fish and plantains.
You may stay in your tent, or spend the night in a hammock or on the floor of their native palm-thatched huts. Make sure you bring along a few dollars to take home some of their intricate handicrafts. Behave and demonstrate maturity, as many of the women are topless, as they have dressed for hundreds of years.
Chagres River
Float down the historic
Chagres River from just below the Madden Dam to the vicinity of the town
of Gamboa, the ruins of Las Cruces, and two more villages of Emberá and
Wounan Indians. This was the mighty river that carried countless tons
of precious metal and jewels from Panama City to the awaiting Galleons
in the Caribbean. This is the river that the Pirate Henry Morgan and
his men canoed up, on their fateful trip across the isthmus to capture
and pillage Panama City in 1671; the same river that the 49’ers took on
their way to California. This is the mighty river that would rise 40
feet after a single afternoon’s tropical rainstorm; the same river that
had to be pacified and dammed at Gatun before the creation of the Panama
Canal would be possible.
Follow the current down alongside the banks, with the
“Guipo” and “Corotú” trees and their sleeping Iguana and Howler Monkeys.
If you see any sleeping Crocodiles or Caymans, better just let them
continue sleeping. It might be difficult to see a jaguar getting a
drink these days, but you never know when one of them might be seeing
you. This wouldn’t be a bad opportunity to drag a hook in the water,
and maybe come up with a Peacock Bass or two for dinner.
The Town of Las Cruces
was at the headwaters of the Chagres during the rainy season. This town
was probably an Indian village long before it was a Spanish Colonial
town. The town was the mandatory stopping point for the Argonauts, as
they left their canoes and barges, and made way along the Las Cruces
trail to Panama City, either by way of animals or on foot. For two
hundred years before the 49ers though, it was the end of the “Treasure
Trail” coming from Panama City, where the hundreds of treasure laden
pack animals would be unloaded, their cargo being transferred to barges
and riverboats to be taken down the Chagres to San Lorenzo. At San
Lorenzo, the treasure was either unloaded or stored, or it continued
east along the coast to the historic towns of Nombre de Dios or
Portobello. Here it was again stored until the arrival of the Galleons
to take it back to Spain. These towns, and the alternate, dry season
treasure route called the Camino Real or “Royal or King’s Road”, are a
story all unto themselves. Maybe on your next visit you can tackle that
trail.
The original Las Cruces Trail was approximately 18 to
20 miles from Las Cruces to Old Panama City. The length of the original
Trail was paved with river rocks, giving it an appearance of a
cobble stone road. Those areas of stone paving are pretty scarce and
hard to find these days due to erosion, jungle growth and detours.
After hundreds of years of use and hundreds of heavy mules in those
early days, many a section of trail lays in deep gullies and their
tracks can still be seen.
For the purposes of this Trek, you will the hike first 6
miles, ending up at a small park on the “Rainforest Road”.
Just a mile or so along the trail from Las Cruces,
you will pass an unmarked area where Sir Francis Drake made a
not-very-successful attack on one of the Spanish mule trains laden with
treasure. Along the trail are also the locations of other small
communities that served as rest stops for Spaniards, 49ers, and
Surveyors and Engineers for both the original railroad and the Canal.
These towns have been completely reclaimed by the jungle, and would
take some serious archeological effort to study. Having said that,
you’re certain to run across an old bottle or mule shoe. Remember, we
practice “Leave No Trace”... so sorry, don’t get your souvenirs here.
It’s not only against good “Leave No Trace” principals; it’s also
against the law.
Instead of thinking about souvenirs, enjoy the wild
life. Panama has over 900 species of birds, more than all the species
of Mexico, the States, and Canada combined.
Here are some of the things that you will see and do while you are on the Trek,